Monday, March 23, 2015

Worm Composting part 1

Building on the last post, your own compost pile is a great way to get rid of bendy vegetable (you know what I'm talking about), overripe fruit or fruit peels, moldy bread, stale crackers, the list goes on. Composting can be intimidating. Many people have started compost piles one month only to give it up the next due to smell, maintenance, and space issues. Totally understandable, but fixable none the less.

One super easy way to get into composting is with a vermicompost (yes worms) bin. The one that I have is about 14x14 inches (total guesstimate), which I got online from The Worm Factory company. The kit comes with everything you need to get started, excluding the worms, for less than $100. Whoa, I know! That is expensive for a worm house, but it helped me get started in knowing what to do. If you are willing to invest in this type of bin, great! If not, great! I can help you make your own for a fraction of the price.

My Worm Bin (currently in my garage)
The way that I have my worm bin set up (although this may not be what the actual instructions say, I have had success with this), there are four layers. The three top layers start off with dirt. Put your worms in the 3rd layer from the top, add whatever you want to compost and cover with damp strips of newspaper or paper from a paper shredder. The worms will migrate upwards in the bin, so you can also put some newspaper and food in the 2nd layer as well. After a week, or whenever you notice that your worms have eaten most of the food that you placed in the lowest layer, add more food to not only that layer, but also the two layers above it.

The main problem that comes up is that people overfeed their worms. Allow your worms to get used to their environment before piling on all of your refrigerator scraps. If you start your bin in the summer(suggested), it will only take a few weeks for your worms to be visibly productive. If you start it in the fall or winter, when the temperature is on the lower end of the 40-80 degree Fahrenheit suggested temp, the worms will be far less productive and take more time to assimilate to the bin.

Top layer
The bottom layer of the bin is the best though! This is where all of the earthy, liquidy, fertilizery goodness happens. Gravity takes the moisture from the wet paper, old produce, and of course worm excrement through the seven levels of the candy cane forest, through the sea of swirly twirly gumdrops, and to the collection tray. The spigot in the bottom tray is great, but not necessary if you are DIYing a worm bin (instruction coming up next?). In the peak of productivity, I can collect a cup of worm juice every day or 2. In the winter months (when I keep my wormies in the garage), I only empty the collection tray about once a month, and it hasn't seemed to cause any problems....

This is getting pretty long, so I think I will split worm compost into 2 parts, and another DIY worm bin post. Stay tuned if you are interested in worm composting and soil health, and hopefully soon we can get into planting and gardening!!!!

For now, Worm Composting Do's and Don'ts:

DO keep your worm bin nice and moist. The paper on top should be wet to the touch, but not dripping with water
DON'T be afraid to stick your fingers into the dirt! The worms aren't going to hurt you, and this is the best way to determine/maintain the optimal temperature and moisture content
DO feed your worms old fruits, veggies, bread, dryer lint, paper, egg shells, coffee grounds, stale crackers, etc.
DON'T feed you worms meat or dairy products, or a lot of citrus-y fruit (a little is fine)
DO cut or break the food into small chunks (coin sized is great)

and DO have fun!!!!








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